Welfare

P.E.P.A. EDUCATIONAL

For your information we have provided the following sections. Please click on the topic of your choice.

Puppy Care

FEEDING NOTES AND GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR PUPPIES

Routine is very important for you and the puppies.

There are no rules - just guidelines and commonsense.

Like all human babes they want feeding regularly, kept clean, cuddled and entertained with new things - attention span is limited.

FEEDING

We have kept to three main meals a day with a small soya milk and weetabix meal break normally between the midday and last feed if required. They may be crying because they are bored, so a game or a chew may suffice.

Personally I do not give tinned food or any food that has too many chemicals or preservatives - only in moderation if necessary.

1st meal - they wake about 7.30 am and they are ravenous. Approx 125 grammes of puppy biscuits per puppy per day. We give them dry biscuits and top it up with protein - normally about 1 quarter of a chicken for two puppies cut into small bite sizes. I have roasted the chicken but soon to give them boiled chicken because I want to downsize the fat.

2nd meal - 12 noon approximately. Same as the 1st meal but you can vary it with fish or beef.

In between, a snack if necessary around 4.00 pm - a bowl of soya milk and weetabix to mix but keep it milky. They say that normal milk will give runny tummies - I don't know whether soya milk is OK but they haven’t been ill on it.

3rd and last meal - The same as the other main meals (make it as late as possible - we have managed to 6.30 but if they demand their food then we give it to them. We don’t let them cry for too long.)

With each meal we have given them a controlled run and cuddles and a game within our environment - normally a small patio or kitchen which we can close off from the other adult dogs - and they sleep in our utility room.

AMUSEMENTS

Something to chew is a must. A small chew as per example;

Squeaky toys, even a toy box;

Something to play ‘tug of war’ with;

Putting on the dishwasher, the washing machine and also pegging out the clothes;

Cuddles and chats. Re-assuring noises;

Gentle brushing.

When scolding just raise your voice or tap on the bottom. Never the nose as this can damage their sense of smell.

GENERAL NOTES

During cold days and definitely at night, they will settle down with hot water bottles under their clothes, hidden from view (otherwise they may chew them)

You can put a ticking clock, like a heartbeat, in their bed for comfort initially. Remember they are use to the comfort of 7 pups not just 2.

Please, please remember it is so easy to trip over them or tread on them. They are fragile and can be hurt so we have adopted a slow pace around them and tend to ski with our feet rather than tread.

This document is intended to help you to really enjoy your new pups and hope you have as much love and pleasure from them as we certainly have.

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Kitten Care

BOTTLE FEEDING YOUNG KITTENS

The most important factor in successfully bottle-feeding kittens is hygiene. Kittens fed on their mother's milk acquire antibodies protecting them from many infections; hand-reared infants have no such protection, so all feeding utensils must be sterilized each time they are used. Fresh food should be made up each day.

The equipment needed is simple. A small medicinal dropper with a rubber bulb, and a plastic syringe with a short length of 2mm plastic tubing replacing the needle, have both proved useful feeding aids. With the correct technique, it is possible to pass the fine plastic tubing directly into the kitten’s stomach, enabling it to be fed even if it seems unable to suck normally. This should be done only after proper instruction from a vet, as the tubing can be passed down the trachea by mistake, with fatal results. Alternatively, you can use a child’s toy baby bottle. However, the best feeding aid is, perhaps, the specially designed kitten bottle now available from veterinary suppliers and pet stores; its teat is modelled on that of a nursing queen.

The initial basic diet can consist of proprietary milk powder or evaporated milk made up to double the normal human concentration, or a special feline milk substitute, if available. You need to feed the kittens every two hours for the first three weeks, although four-hourly feeds are usually adequate at night after the first few days. The amount taken at each feed varies widely, and it is best to gauge this by the kitten’s behaviour. As a guide, however, 3 to 5ml (up to 1 teaspoonful) per feed will be ample at first, rising to about 7ml after one week and 10ml at three weeks. At this point, a little baby cereal or dissolved meat jelly (from any good-quality canned cat food) can be mixed in, leading to weaning as with normally-reared kittens.

FEEDING PROGRAMME FOR KITTENS

Note:
Milk feeds refer to proprietary kitten milk, baby milk or evaporated milk made up as described in the text with cereal added after the first day; ‘meat’ feeds refers to cooked minced or chopped fish, raw scraped meat, etc., and/or canned cat food (for kittens). The size of feeds is approximate; generally, feed to appetite; from complete weaning, feed about 60 to 75 g per kg body weight (1 to 1.25 oz per lb) per day.

LEARNING TO FEED

At three weeks, a kitten cannot balance steadily or take food from a saucer, so offer the first feeds from a teaspoon. Support the kitten with one hand, its feet on the floor or your knee, while bringing the spoon to its mouth. Do not hold it with legs dangling, or it will feel insecure. Within a few days the kitten will begin to enjoy its extra feeds, and by four weeks will be able to stand and take food from a saucer.

HAND FEEDING

With a dropper syringe or feeding bottle, first warm the food to about 38 ºC. Hold the kitten in the palm of one hand while placing the feeder tube or teat in its mouth. Squeeze the milk out gently and the kitten (whose natural instinct is to suck) will soon get the idea. It is important not to hurry the kitten.

AFTER FEEDING

Help the kitten to urinate and defecate. Gently stroke its lower abdomen to stimulate urination. Bowel movement can be helped by gently massaging the anus with cotton wool moistened with medicinal liquid paraffin. If you suspect constipation after four days, consult your vet.

A KITTEN PEN

A kitten pen to accommodate the kittens in a confined area while allowing plenty of human contact, can be bought or built from wire mesh on a wooden frame. Its walls should be about 75 cm. tall, so the kittens cannot escape. (Once they are able to climb, however, a roof may be needed). Within the pen are the kittening box for sleeping, a litter tray, feeding bowls, toys and so on. (Cats and kittens are instinctively extremely clean and will automatically use a litter tray which should be cleaned daily).

GENERAL CARE

Kittens must be kept warm in a cosy, blanket-lined box. An infra-red dull emitter or a thermostatically-controlled under-bed heating pad can be used, but a blanket-wrapped hot-water bottle has the advantage of simulating the natural mother’s body for the kittens to snuggle up to. The temperature in the box should be 27 to 30 º at first, reducing gradually to 21º at six weeks.

Kittens entirely hand-raised will need help with their toilet, as maternal licking normally stimulates urination and defecation. The very first faeces may take some time to be passed, but there is no need for veterinary help unless they are delayed more than four days. If any areas of skin become sore with a rash, soothe them with a mild antiseptic cream safe for feline use.

The kittens should be encouraged to play and once they have been vaccinated they should be be in contact with other cats.

For information regarding Pet Behaviour of Dogs and Cats the following is a good web site: www.PetPlace.com

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TRAVELLING BACK TO THE UK
WITH YOUR CAT OR DOG

Website for all instructions: www.defra.gov.uk

This website offers all information necessary when taking your pet to the UK.

The procedures necessary (Microchips, Passports etc) Routes and Transport Companies (Authorised Ports and Transport Carriers only) Making your trip run smoothly – Help finding a Vet (re: tapeworm examination not less than 24hrs or more than 48 hrs before pet is checked in to travel to UK.

Company Information and bookings:
British Airways Live Cargo Unaccompanied
Alicante Airport to London Gatwick
KUEHNE 96-606-1275 or 96-606-1270

British Pet Helpline: 00 44 (0)870 241 1710

Another useful link for information about taking your pet back to the UK is : http://news.skyscanner.net/articles/2008/01/000007-international-rovers-travelling-with-your-pets.html

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Dangerous Dogs

Notice from the Gandia Ayuntamiento on what is required when you own a dog that is on the 'Potentially Dangerous' list (see below).

The following information was accurate for the city of Gandia as of October, 2006.

We would like to know of your experience in other communities. Please send any information via our Contact page. That will be of use to our other users. Thank you.

Potentially dangerous dog list:

Alano Español, American Staffordshire Terrier, American Pit Bull Terrier, Bullmastiff, Bull Tierrier, Cap de Bou Mallorquin, De presa canario Dobermann, Dogo Argentino, Dogo de Burdeos, Fila brasileiro, Mastín Napolitano, Mastiff, Rottweiler, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, Tosa japonés

This list includes both pure breed and crosses with any of these animals. Additionally, any animal which has a record of aggression, or violent behaviour towards humans or other animals is considered to be potentially dangerous.

Bring the following documents within one month of notification to the Ayuntamiento Departament de Sanitat:

• Certified copy of your DNI or other Spanish identification

• Certificate of Empadronamento

• Certificate of any criminal record. The Ayuntamiento will obtain this information for you. (This appears to be a criminal record only for the period you have been in Spain)

• It is necessary for owner of the dog to take a Psychological Test showing their ability to deal with a potentially dangerous breed of dog. This test is given at the Centro de Reconociento Conductores. In Gandia this is on C/Aparisi i Guijarro 1, 3rd floor, door 8. These are the same offices where the health test for a Spanish driving license is taken. Cost is 40 €. Due to the length of the test (80-90 psychological multiple choice questions) it is advisable to arrive no later than 9.30.a.m. on a Thursday or Friday. (The earlier part of the week is usually extremely busy)

• A third party insurance cover against damage caused by the owner’s dog, to a minimum value of € 150.253 (25 million ptas), is required. This is usually contained in a home insurance policy. If not, see additional information at bottom

• Photocopy of the animal’s medical record of inoculations/vaccinations

• Photocopy of the identification of the animal with RIVIA (copy of paperwork with microchip number)

• Certificate from your veterinarian stating their opinion of the care and health of the potentially dangerous animal. Ask your vet to tell you the cost of this item.

All the above documentation (apart from criminal record document) must be handed into your local Ayuntamiento, where it will be processed and a license for the animal, valid for five years will be issued at no additional cost. The insurance responsibility and veterinarian’s statement have to be provided for review annually.

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Dangerous Wildlife

PROTECTING YOUR PET

Vets here in Spain notice a lot of distemper coming in from eastern European countries. Parvo is usually only dangerous in puppies after they have been weaned they no longer have the mother´s immunity and are in danger until they acquire an immunity. The virus is endemic around the world, but if the animal is not raised with infected animals(which it could pick up easily if it were in a refuge kennel) it is usually safe. An injection quickly builds up an immunity. The statistics are 70% with the first shot and 90+% after the second and no need for further ones. If the dog has grown into adulthood it probably does not need another parvo shot.

The mechanics of the drug companies is to produce a shot that covers a multiple number of diseases. So the injection we call distemper/parvo here in Spain carries antibodies for two other diseases which are important for the animal so most vets recommend getting the shot.

There is always a big problem with a disease which is transmitted by the mosquito called "leishmaniosis". It is incurable at the present time. Your vet will take a blood sample to determine if the animal already has the disease and if it does then a periodic injection keeps the animal from getting any worse. There is also an injection to keep an uninfected animal protected.

The rabies shot has to be repeated throughout the life of the animal as the benefit/cost is just too great to take a chance so the governments in most countries make it mandatory for owners to have their animals inoculated.

Processionary Moth / Caterpillar

Processionary Caterpillars are active from December to April.

When out walking with your pet in Spain between December and April, it is extremely dangerous to get too close to an innocent looking line of caterpillars that you may see crossing your path.

The pine processionary caterpillar (Thaumetopoea pityocampa) is known as ‘procesionaria del pino’ in Spanish and during late winter/early spring they will be coming out of the trees forming conspicuous snakelike lines as they traverse the ground searching for soft soil in which to burrow. They are to be found wherever there are pine trees; pine forests, urbanisations or road side plantings. In other words, wherever pine trees are present.

There are several stages within their lifecycle but, they are only dangerous to people and pets during the caterpillar phase. During the adult phase they are a simple and unremarkable, a short lived moth which emerges in the summer and flies at night. The male moth is attracted to the female moth by pheromones that she emits. They will mate and a single female can then lay up to 300 tiny eggs, which she attaches in a mass to a pine needle. Around one month later these eggs hatch into minute caterpillars. These larvae have 5 growth stages that are called “instars”. They grow quickly in body size, moult their skin and that denotes the start of the next instar.

These social caterpillars living in family communities. They eat pine needles by night and sleep in small temporary ‘floss-like’ nests by day. They are nomadic, the nests hardly visible.  Then, during the winter, the siblings build a permanent white ‘floss-like’ nest on the tip of a pine branch, which give the trees the appearance of having blots of white cotton wool and there are very often several nests on a single pine tree. With half a dozen or more nests in the top of a single tree, the leaves can easily be stripped by nightly foraging, sometimes clearing all greenery off some branches and in many cases damaging the tree badly. By feeding under the cover of darkness attack by birds and predatory wasps are avoided.  At dusk the caterpillars leave their communal nest in search of food, there is no single entrance hole, they simply push through the silk layers and once onto a branch they will leave a scent trail to help themselves find their way back before the morning light arrives.

Night time eating occurs during the winter months.  The ‘floss-like’ homes are carefully positioned to take advantage of the sun’s heat, the warmth being absorbed into the nest, thereby aiding the resting caterpillars to digest their previous night’s meal. There can be up to 300 caterpillars in a nest which, helps keep the nest warm.

Pictures courtesy of Clive Muir, Wildside Holidays of www.wildsideholidays.com

Any time from January to April, depending upon the spring temperatures, they leave the nest in preparation for the next part of their lifecycle. A colony of caterpillars, each caterpillar measuring about 4cms, move in a long procession following their leader. The procession varies in length, depending on how many have survived to this final caterpillar stage, but sometimes contains as many as 60 caterpillars. They travel along the ground for about 30 metres or so, very often on paths in search of soft soil in which to burrow. It is at this point most people and pets come into contact with them with sometimes painful consequences if they get too close.

It is very advisable to avoid these innocent looking creatures at all costs. The caterpillars are covered in tiny barbed hairs, which are their defence mechanism. These hairs are often being shed and so can be airborne around infested pine trees, on the branches where they have travelled and also left in the line of the migrating procession.

When humans and pets come into contact with these hairs, the hairs can cause reactions ranging from mild inflammation and irritation to severe anaphylactic shock. The worst problems occur if contact is made with the caterpillar directly and hairs ingested, either by picking it up, stepping on it or moving it in some manner. Once on the skin a rash soon forms which can be incredibly itchy. Medical advice should be sought if this is experienced.  The rash can be painful, very itchy and can last for as much as three weeks.

Moving the caterpillars, their nests, or even the branches that they have walked along, may release these hairs into the air where they can be inhaled or come to rest unnoticed on clothing. The nest material that remains on the tree after the caterpillars have left will still contain the “urticating” hairs. (The word “Urtica” is Latin for Nettle, a plant that has barbed hairs, which cause a rash). Even burning infected pine branches should be avoided as the hairs can be lifted into the air and fall anywhere or be inhaled.

It is very advisable to immediately call your vet - if your pet should either come into physical contact with a caterpillar, or picks up some hairs on its paws, the irritation causing the paws to be licked, hairs will be transferred to the lips and tongue, thereby inducing itching, swelling and possibly vomiting. Look out for the symptoms of small white spots in the mouth and on the tongue, excessive drooling and chomping. In some cases partial amputation of the tongue is the only course of action.

If you are aware of the presence of processionary caterpillars in your area, please inform your local Ayuntamiento, who are able to spray the trees.

Under no circumstances should you try to handle the caterpillars, cut down the nests or try to burn them.

Spraying the nests with bleach has been found to be effective in killing the caterpillars in situ up to the 3rd instar.

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Leishmaniasis

What is Leishmaniasis?

Leishmaniasis is caused by a microscopic parasite which is spread by sand fly bites and is particularly prevalent in the Mediterranean. It is a severe, often fatal disease. An infected sand fly bites a dog (usually on the muzzle or ears) and deposits the parasite under the skin, causing a lesion. The parasite then attacks the dog’s cells damaging the immune system and a variety of body systems leading to serious disorders including skin disease, anaemia, arthritis, eye problems and kidney diseases. Bites are most likely to occur around dawn and dusk during the sand fly season, which runs from May to September. Fever, weight loss, skin sores and hair loss, particularly around the ears and muzzle, are recognisable symptons.

Treatment

According to the weight of the dog, treatment can be costly and extensive and may not be curative, so preventative measures are advisable. For further information, please contact your local veterinary surgeon.

Prevention

Some products are licensed to kill sand flies and to help prevent them from biting. For further information, please contact your local veterinary surgeon.

Click her to read an article by Dr. Oscar Cardellas of Clinica Germanias in Gandia.

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